Trump: Here Is What He Wants To Do In His First 100 Day
At the end of October, Donald Trump spoke in Gettysburg, Pa., and released a plan for his first 100 days in office. Read more
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At the end of October, Donald Trump spoke in Gettysburg, Pa., and released a plan for his first 100 days in office. Read more
We were blessed to be included in the 2016 USA Today Manufacturing & Skills in America Campaign, reaching 750,000 print readers across USA Today, FABTECH 2016 and Manufacturing Day as well as 3M+ readers online. Below are links to some of the articles. Thanks for sharing.
Patriotic Spending Has a Bigger Impact Than You RealizeMany Americans love the idea of buying products and technology made in America over imports. But buying American made products may be more than a feel-good choice. by KURT UHLIR, CHAIRMAN, THE MADE IN AMERICA MOVEMENT |
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Mike Rowe Debunks the Myth of a Modern Manufacturing JobThe former host of “Dirty Jobs” and “Somebody’s Gotta Do It” weighs in on the education and career paths Americans often overlook and, too often, do not travel, let alone encourage. |
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Why the Trades Matter Now More Than EverThe educational elite got it wrong: eliminating shop classes has had an epic effect on the economy, industry, crime and our children’s futures. |
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Toby Keith on Looking Past the “Made in America” LabelCountry music icon Toby Keith breaks down what he believes in and what he fights for: American products, made in America. |
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Why America Needs More Skilled Manufacturing WorkersAugmented reality isn’t only reserved for video-game players, like the millions searching to capture Pokémon creatures on their cell phones. |
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How to Fix America’s Manufacturing Skills-GapAccording to political candidates, America needs more good-paying jobs. Fortunately, manufacturing is creating them. Now we need the skilled workers to take up the challenge. |
Special thanks to Mediaplanet and USA Today for their continued support of The Made in America Movement and thousands of American Made companies.
The Trans-Pacific Partnership Trade deal is terrible even apart from its quantifiable economic effects, as it threatens our environment, our health, our democracy, our sovereignty, our security and many other things. But it is also a lousy deal on the pure economics, which is why it is currently being sold to the American people and Congress using bogus economic analysis. Read more
U.S. factories can make goods at the same cost or even cheaper than those made in Eastern Europe, according to a Boston Consulting Group report on Friday. And it is now less than 5% cheaper to make goods in China compared with the U.S.
Global shifts in manufacturing costs can be seen beyond America’s borders, the report said. Manufacturing in Mexico is more cost effective than in China, for example, while Brazil has become one of the most expensive manufacturing centers in the world.
These kinds of changes have prompted American businesses to rethink their supply chains in the aftermath of the global recession. Faced with rising wages in China and high oil prices, many are reconsidering the appeal of manufacturing close to home.
Wal-Mart Stores Inc. and Apple Inc. are just some of the companies that have committed to manufacturing some of their products in the U.S.
But Hal Sirkin, a coauthor of the BCG report, said many firms are still making production decisions “on the basis of a decades-old worldview that is sorely out of date.”
“They still see North America and western Europe as high cost and Latin America, Eastern Europe and most of Asia — especially China, as low cost,” he said in a Friday statement. “In reality, there are now high- and low-cost countries in nearly every region of the world.”
A wave of retirements is about to hit Hoover. Two-fifths of the dam’s current employees will be eligible for retirement in the next five years, leaving the government scrambling to fill 40 upcoming vacancies.
The Interior Department agency that oversees Hoover is moving to fast-track hiring for its department-wide openings. But the dam’s aging workforce, mostly baby boomers closing in on retirement age, are part of a specialized group of hydroelectric engineers and electricians with a skill set not widely taught or available across much of the country, spokeswoman Rose Davis told FoxNews.com.
“It’s an interesting choreography at the dam,” she said, noting the next batch of workers will have to ditch their high-tech training tools and approach fixes using classic engineering techniques.
“It’s hands-on training,” said Davis, with the department’s Bureau of Reclamation. “We teach mechanics and hydro electricians how the dam works. If the signals go off, this is what it means. Do you hear something funny? Do you smell something funny? We teach them to fix generators from the 1930s.”
Hiring at the massive dam-turned-tourist attraction has slowed significantly in recent years, with the biggest blows coming during last year’s partial government shutdown and the sequester — a series of automatic budget cuts that went into effect on March 1, 2013.
The Hoover Dam, located 30 miles southeast of Las Vegas, was constructed in the 1930s and is considered one of the country’s finest engineering and architectural achievements. Located on the border of two states, the structure harnesses the power of the Colorado while creating America’s largest reservoir. It provides billions of kilowatt-hours of hydroelectric power to residents of Nevada, Arizona and California — and the lake supplies water to those states.
Towering at 726 feet high and 1,244 feet long, the dam was one of the largest man-made structures in the world when it was constructed. Contractors were given seven years to construct the 6.6 million-ton barrier. They finished it in five, with a total workforce of 21,000.
But the folks tasked with keeping the site operational today are dwindling – a stark reminder not lost on Interior Secretary Sally Jewell when she visited the area in December.
During a tour of the control center for the Hoover, Parker and Davis dams, Jewell, 58, noticed it was being run by two men – the younger being her age.
“I’d like to say that was a good thing, but it really isn’t very good,” The Las Vegas Review-Journal reported her saying.
Instead, engineers who have retired are now being rehired as consultants to teach a new generation of workers how to handle turbine generators and other equipment crucial to the day-to-day operation.
“The older (worker) had retired and was brought back as what we call a returning annuitant,” Jewell said. “Lives in Alabama. Flies back once a week to take his turn running Hoover Dam.”
At Rowan University in New Jersey, which houses a popular engineering program, spokesman Joe Cardona explained that the Nevada site is “a very niche industry.”
“You are not going to find someone teaching 1930s technology so what’s happening at the Hoover Dam is that they are partnering with local universities in Arizona and Utah to find fits for these spots,” he said.
It’s not to say that the Hoover Dam hasn’t received any upgrades. It has.
Most recently, the government commissioned a new wide-head turbine for the dam’s N8 unit which almost immediately produced a 2 percent efficiency gain. Other improvements include replacing old cast-steel wicket gates with new stainless steel ones that open wider to allow more water in with more force.
Six of the dam’s 17 turbine generators have gotten upgrades since 2005.
But another problem plaguing the Reclamation department is retention.
As of December, 140 of the 800 employees working in the Reclamation’s Lower Colorado Region were eligible to retire in less than five years.
“The millennials are hardest to keep,” Davis said. “We lose a lot of people to the private sector. This includes everyone from human resources to engineers, who may think, ‘I might need to move to the private sector to get my next raise.’”
Some of the engineering jobs — including those in the mechanical, civil and electrical fields — listed under the Bureau of Reclamation on USAJOBS.gov offer salaries exceeding $90,000 for workers with more experience. The jobs, though, can pay as low as roughly $40,000 for those with less experience, depending on the position and location.
Still, Davis said finding workers for the Hoover location – a national landmark only a short drive from Las Vegas – is much easier than filling spots in more remote areas. Next door in California, state officials have been struggling to fill posts and retain workers for the vast State Water Project, a massive water and power system.
Chris McManes, a spokesman for the Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers, told FoxNews.com that making sure specialized jobs like the ones at Hoover are backfilled is pivotal.
“When it comes to hydroelectric power generation and power engineering in general, IEEE-USA is concerned that we have an adequate supply of younger electrical engineers ready to fill the jobs of people who are retiring,” he said.
“The U.S. is refusing to back down from dangerous provisions that will impede timely access to affordable medicines,” said Judit Rius Sanjuan, U.S. manager of the Access Campaign at Doctors Without Borders, a humanitarian group that won the Nobel Peace Prize in 2000.
Most major provisions of the Trans-Pacific Partnership document, which is dated at Aug. 30, are nearly identical to previous leaks that drew criticism from tech activists and consumer groups. But the public disclosure of which countries support or object to which terms, is new. The U.S. government considers the draft text to be classified, a status which has stymied access for congressional aides, and prevented some lawmakers from airing their complaints.
“The Obama administration’s proposals are the worst –- the most damaging for health we have seen in a U.S. trade agreement to date,” said Peter Maybarduk, director of Public Citizen’s global access to medicines program.
Countries that violate the terms of trade agreements can be sued in international courts.
The TPP deal would explicitly empower corporations to directly challenge government laws and regulations, a political power that World Trade Organization treaties have reserved for other sovereign nations. The U.S. has endorsed such corporate political powers in previous trade agreements, including the North American Free Trade Agreement. Companies including Exxon Mobil, Dow Chemical and Eli Lilly have attempted to invoke NAFTA to overrule Canadian regulations on offshore oil drilling, fracking, pesticides, drug patents and other issues.
“With both copyright and patent, the really alarming thing is, there’s talk about major systemic changes that could be made in the next couple of years,” said Parker Higgins, spokesman for the internet freedom group Electronic Frontier Foundation. “The last thing we want to do is crystallize current U.S. law in a trade agreement that we would have to renegotiate.”
The administration, however, rejected criticism that it is pursuing an unhealthy deal.
“We are working with Congress, stakeholders, and our TPP negotiating partners to reach an outcome that promotes high-paying jobs in innovative American industries and reflects our values, including by seeking strong and balanced copyright protections, as well as advancing access to medicines while incentivizing the development of new, lifesaving drugs,” said Carol Guthrie, a spokeswoman for the Office of the U.S. Trade Representative.
The leaked document shows U.S. negotiators pursuing a host of policies that could drive up medical costs by extending drug companies’ and other corporations’ monopolies on their products beyond the normal 20-year patent term. These provisions include standards to lengthen patent terms, expand the criteria for which countries must grant drug patents, require countries to issue new patents on minor alterations to a drug, and establish barriers on the use of pharmaceutical test data, all of which prevent market competition from generic drugs.
A coalition of five nations consistently offered alternatives to the U.S. language, including New Zealand, Singapore, Canada, Chile and Malaysia. The only language mitigating this effort to drive up drug prices is a vague exemption for HIV, tuberculosis and malaria drugs.
“The obligations of this Chapter do not and should not prevent a Party from taking measures to protect public health by promoting access to medicines for all, in particular concerning cases such as HIV/AIDS, tuberculosis, malaria, [US oppose: chagas] and other epidemics as well as circumstances of extreme urgency or national emergency,” the document reads.
Prior WTO agreements have included similar protections, but the U.S. has repeatedly brought political pressure against countries that attempted to grant access to generic AIDS drugs. The U.S. has had several recent disputes with India over the country’s decision to issue a $157 generic cancer drug for which Bayer had charged more than $5,000 a month.
“People die from cancer, too,” notes Sanjuan. “The public health challenges we see in the countries where we work are much broader than HIV, TB and malaria. Even if this is a sincere effort at a solution, it’s a fake solution and won’t really work.”
The draft’s copyright standards would require countries to adopt digital distribution rules similar to those the United States has had in place since the late 1990s. Those rules have come under fire for establishing a host of legal liabilities for normal internet functions. The rules have made tech start-ups targets of costs and legal threats from movie studios and record labels, and created conflicts over simple actions like linking to copyrighted content.
The U.S. has avoided some of the most damaging implications of its broad copyright definitions by relying on a robust set of exemptions, including fair use and other terms that permit using some copyrighted information without paying royalties. But the TPP draft would establish a narrow international standard for fair use, and thwart other types of exemptions. EFF and others have warned against exporting the U.S. copyright criteria without including U.S.-style exemptions.
WikiLeaks, the government transparency organization, released the document on the same day that 151 congressional Democrats sent a letter to President Barack Obama objecting to the “fast-track” process the president hopes to use to approve the TPP deal. Two separate letters from dozens of House Democrats and Republicans objecting to the same process were sent to Obama on Tuesday.
Original article can be read here: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/11/13/wikileaks-global-health_n_4269337.html
Strongly worded letters to President Barack Obama Tuesday were signed by hardline tea partiers, true-blue progressives, and moderate, corporate-friendly lawmakers in both parties, indicating political trouble for a trade deal the administration had hoped to seal by year end.
Critics of the Trans-Pacific deal have warned that it would undermine Internet freedom and consumer protections in the U.S. and abroad. But the letters take issue with the process for approving the deal, demanding greater congressional input, rather than singling out specific policy complaints. Because of their broad scope, trade deals often draw a variety of critics, who can choose to fight the deals on procedural grounds, rather than attempting to unite behind disparate policy issues. On some issues, however, a lack of congressional oversight can generate opposition, even from supporters of the Obama administration’s policy proposals.
“Under Fast Track, the executive branch is empowered to sign trade agreements before Congress has an opportunity to vote on them, and then unilaterally write legislation making the pacts’ terms U.S. federal law,” reads a letter from 22 House Republicans. “Fast Track allows the president to send these executive branch-authored bills directly to the floor for a vote under rules forbidding all floor amendments and limiting debate. … We do not agree to cede our constitutional authority to the executive.”
The GOP letter includes signatures from tea party stalwarts like Rep. Michele Bachmann (R-Minn.), along with moderate members whose tenure in Congress dates to the 1990s. A coalition of New Democrats and progressives — who typically take opposite positions on free-trade deals — pressed the same theme in a separate letter.
“Any new proposed Trade Promotion Authority must reflect the changing nature of international trade and ensure that Congress plays a more meaningful role in the negotiating process,” reads a letter from 12 Democrats, including progressives like Reps. John Lewis (D-Ga.) and Jim McDermott (D-Wash.), along with moderates Reps. Allyson Schwartz (D-Pa.) and Jim Himes (D-Conn.).
The letters come the day before liberal Democrats plan to voice concerns with the trade pact process in a press conference.
The proposed terms of the Trans-Pacific Partnership deal are secret. The Obama administration, like many of its predecessors, has registered the trade platform as classified information, to the chagrin of lawmakers. Although several dozen corporate officials and a handful of public interest experts are given access to the negotiation information, they are not permitted to disclose it to the public or the press. Staffers for members of Congress also are denied access to the terms.
From leaked drafts, terms of the Trans-Pacific deal have come under fire for proposing to grant corporations the political power to directly challenge government regulations in international court. This sovereignty issue has long been a sticking point for both conservatives and progressive members of Congress, as the right to challenge government rules had been restricted to sovereign nations under World Trade Organization pacts and other deals.
But the U.S. government has pushed to include such language in trade agreements dating back to the 1993 North American Free Trade Agreement. In recent years,Exxon Mobil, Dow Chemical, Eli Lilly and others have attempted to challenge Canadian rules on offshore oil drilling, fracking, pesticides and drug patents through NAFTA’s corporate-empowered litigation system. Proponents of generic medications have also voiced concerns that the Trans-Pacific Partnership would undermine access to affordable, life-saving drugs.
American labor unions have complained that these systems encourage corporations to move jobs to locations with weak regulatory oversight.
Proponents of free trade deals defend the Trans-Pacific Partnership as an effort to reduce unnecessary rules and tariffs that interfere with productive commerce.
Consumer protection advocates, environmentalists and public health experts, have voiced opposition to leaked terms of the pact, which includes the U.S., Australia, Peru, Malaysia, Vietnam, New Zealand, Chile, Singapore, Brunei, Canada, Mexico and Japan. Several of these countries already have free trade agreements with the U.S. that have eliminated most tariffs. That suggests much of the deal’s appeal is tied to regulatory standards.
SOURCE: Huffington Post
Original article can be read here: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/11/12/trans-pacific-partnership-house_n_4263174.html
But even though the Obama administration has called on Western buyers to use their purchasing power to push for improved industry working conditions after several workplace disasters over the last 14 months, the American government has done little to adjust its own shopping habits.
Labor Department officials say that federal agencies have “zero tolerance” for using overseas plants that break local laws, but American government suppliers in countries including Bangladesh, the Dominican Republic, Haiti, Mexico, Pakistan and Vietnam show a pattern of legal violations and harsh working conditions, according to audits and interviews at factories. Among them: padlocked fire exits, buildings at risk of collapse, falsified wage records and repeated hand punctures from sewing needles when workers were pushed to hurry up. |
In Chiang Mai, Thailand, employees at the Georgie & Lou factory, which makes clothing sold by the Smithsonian Institution, said they were illegally docked over 5 percent of their roughly $10-per-day wage for any clothing item with a mistake. They also described physical harassment by factory managers and cameras monitoring workers even in bathrooms.
At Zongtex Garment Manufacturing in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, which makes clothes sold by the Army and Air Force, an audit conducted this year found nearly two dozen under-age workers, some as young as 15. Several of them described in interviews with The New York Times how they were instructed to hide from inspectors.
“Sometimes people soil themselves at their sewing machines,” one worker said, because of restrictions on bathroom breaks.
Federal agencies rarely know what factories make their clothes, much less require audits of them, according to interviews with procurement officials and industry experts. The agencies, they added, exert less oversight of foreign suppliers than many retailers do. And there is no law prohibiting the federal government from buying clothes produced overseas under unsafe or abusive conditions.
“It doesn’t exist for the exact same reason that American consumers still buy from sweatshops,” said Daniel Gordon, a former top federal procurement official who now works at George Washington University Law School. “The government cares most about getting the best price.”
Frank Benenati, a spokesman for the Office of Management and Budget, which oversees much of federal procurement policy, said the administration has made progress in improving oversight, including an executive order last year tightening rules against federal suppliers using factories that rely on debt bondage or other forms of forced labor.
“The administration is committed to ensuring that our government is doing business only with contractors who place a premium on integrity and good business ethics,” he said.
Labor and State Department officials have encouraged retailers to participate in strengthening rules on factory conditions in Bangladesh — home to one of the largest and most dangerous garment industries. But defense officials this month helped kill a legislative measure that would have required military stores, which last year made more than $485 million in profit, to comply with such rules because they said the $500,000 annual cost was too expensive.
Federal spending on garments overseas does not reach that of Walmart, the world’s biggest merchandiser, which spends more than $1 billion a year just in Bangladesh, or Zara, the Spanish apparel seller, but it still is in a top tier that includes H & M, the trendy fashion business based in Sweden, Eddie Bauer and Lands’ End, sellers of outerwear and other clothing.
Like most retail brands, American agencies typically do not order clothes directly from factories. They rely on contractors. This makes it challenging for agencies to track their global supply chain, with layers of middlemen, lax oversight by other governments, few of their own inspectors overseas and little means of policing factories that farm out work to other plants without the clients’ knowledge. When retailers, labor groups or others inspect these factories, the audits often understate problems because managers regularly coach workers and doctor records.
The United States government, though, faces special pressures. Its record on garment contracting demonstrates the tensions between its low-bid procurement practices and high-road policy objectives on labor and human rights issues. |
Along a dirt road in Gazipur, about 25 miles north of the Bangladeshi capital, riot police fired tear gas shells, rubber bullets and sound grenades in a fierce clash with garment workers last month, sending scores to the hospital. The protesters demanding better conditions included some from a factory called V & R Fashions. In July, auditors rated that factory as “needs improvement” because workers’ pay was illegally docked for minor infractions and the building was unsafe, illegally constructed and not intended for industrial use.
Unsafe and Repressive
Like dozens of oth
er factor
ies in the area, V & R makes clothes for the American government, which is constantly prowling for the best deals. In interviews, workers at a half-dozen of these suppliers described the effect of such cost pressures.
At Manta Apparels, for example, which makes uniforms for the General Services Administration, employees said beatings are common and fire exits are kept chained except when auditors visit. The local press has described Manta as one of the most repressive factories in the country. A top labor advocate, Aminul Islam, was organizing there in 2010 when he was first arrested by the police and tortured. In April 2012, he was found dead, a hole drilled below his right knee and his ankles crushed.
Several miles from Manta, 40 women from another supplier, Coast to Coast, gathered late one night to avoid being seen publicly talking to a reporter. Dressed in burqas, the women said that prices of the clothing they make for sale on American military bases are now so cheap that managers try to save money by pushing them to speed up production. In the rush, workers routinely burn themselves with irons, they said, often requiring hospitalizations.
Work does not stop, they said, when it rain pours through a six-foot crack in the ceiling of the top floor of the factory — a repurposed apartment building with two extra floors added illegally to increase capacity. Even after the manager swipes their timecards, they say, he orders them to keep sewing.
While giving a tour of the plant, the manager described the building crack as inconsequential and too expensive to repair. He denied the workers’ other allegations. The owner of Manta declined to comment.
Conditions like those are possible partly because American government agencies usually do not know which factories supply their goods or are reluctant to reveal them. Soon after a fire killed at least 112 people at the Tazreen Fashions factory in Bangladesh in November 2012, several members of Congress asked various agencies for factory addresses. Of the seven agencies her office contacted, Representative Carolyn Maloney, Democrat of New York, said only the Department of the Interior turned over its list.
Over the summer, military officials told Representative George Miller, Democrat of California, that order forms for apparel with Marine Corps logos had been discovered in Tazreen’s charred remains but that the corps had ties to no other Bangladeshi factories. Several weeks later, the officials said they were mistaken and had discovered a half-dozen or so other factories producing unauthorized Marine Corps apparel. On Sunday, the owners of Tazreen and 11 employees were charged with culpable homicide.
President Obama has long pushed for more transparency in procurement. As a senator, he sponsored legislation in 2006 creating the website USASpending.gov, which open-government advocates say has made it far easier to track federal contracting. However, procurement experts fault the website for requiring agencies to name their contractors, but not identifying the specific factories doing the work. Some states and cities already require companies to disclose that information before awarding them public contracts, said Bjorn Skorpen Claeson, senior policy analyst at the International Labor Rights Forum.
Federal officials still have to navigate a tangle of rules. Defense officials, for instance, who spend roughly $2 billion annually on military uniforms, are required by a World War II-era rule called the Berry Amendment to have most of them made in the United States. In recent years, Congress has pressured defense officials to cut costs on uniforms. Increasingly, the department has turned to federal prisons, where wages are under $2 per hour. Federal inmates this year stitched more than $100 million worth of military uniforms.
No sooner had the Transportation Security Administration, or T.S.A., signed a $50 million contract in February for new uniforms for its 50,000 airport security agents and other workers, than the agency was attacked from all sides.
Union officials, opposed to outsourcing work overseas, objected because the Mexican plant making the clothing, VF Imagewear Matamoros, was the same one that had treated uniforms with chemicals that caused rashes in hundreds of T.S.A. agents. Congress called an oversight hearing, where some lawmakers questioned why two-thirds of the uniforms would be made in foreign factories, saying the deal was a missed chance to stimulate domestic job growth. Other lawmakers faulted the agency for spending too much money on clothing, especially on the cusp of a federal budget crisis, no matter where the merchandise was made.
“Bottom line,” John W. Halinski, T.S.A. deputy administrator, told Congress, “we go for the lowest-cost uniform, sir.”
The hunt for lower costs and the expansion of free-trade pacts have meant that more of this work is being done abroad, often in poor countries where the Obama administration is trying to spur competition and development.
In Haiti, for instance, trucks loaded with camouflage pants, shirts and jackets, some of them destined for American military bases, idle in front of a factory called BKI.
Next year, BKI managers hope to double the amount of camouflage clothing made for the American government, part of a contract worth more than $30 million between a division of Propper International, a Missouri-based uniform company, and the General Services Administration, which outfits workers for more than a dozen federal agencies.
Three years ago, much of this camouflage clothing was made in Puerto Rico, where workers earned the minimum wage of about $7.25 an hour. By 2011, many of these jobs moved to a factory in the Dominican Republic called Suprema. Wages there were about 80 cents per hour and unpaid overtime was routine, according to workers in recent interviews and a 2010 audit. Since then, most of these jobs have migrated again, this time to BKI in a Haitian free-trade zone called Codevi. Average hourly wages at BKI are about 8 cents less per hour than those at Suprema, according to workers.
Standing near the factory entrance, several BKI workers said they were proud of the clothes they made for the American government. “We push hard because we know they expect better,” said Rodley Charles, 29, a quality inspector at the factory.
But there is basic math: the average pay of 72 cents per hour (which is illegal and below Haiti’s minimum wage) barely covers food and rent, said Mr. Charles, who has since quit, and two other BKI workers.
These wage pressures may soon intensify. Codevi will soon face new competition from another industrial park called Caracol, which is being built partly with money from the United States Agency for International Development as part of reconstruction efforts after the earthquake of 2010.
American officials predict that Caracol will eventually create 60,000 new jobs. Current wages there? About 57 cents per hour, or roughly 15 cents less than typical wages at Codevi.
Big Business
At a military store in Bethesda, Md., Tori Novo smiled as she looked over a pair of $19.99 children’s cargo pants made in Bangladesh that sell for $39 in most department stores. The best part of living on base, said Ms. Novo, a 31-year-old Navy recruiter, was “savings like these.”
Known as exchanges, these big-box stores on military bases around the world offer a guarantee: to beat or match any price from rivals. That promise puts the exchanges in direct competition with the deep discounts offered by stores like Gap and Target. It also adds to already intense pressure to lower costs by using the cheapest factories, industry analysts say.
These stores, run by the Defense Department, do big business, selling more than $1 billion a year in apparel alone. Exempt from the Berry Amendment, the exchanges get more than 90 percent of their clothes from factories outside the United States, according to industry estimates. The profits from these tax-free stores mostly go toward entertainment services like golf courses, gyms and bowling alleys on bases.
Though the Government Accountability Office criticized the exchanges over a decade ago for exerting less oversight than private retailers and for failing to independently monitor their overseas suppliers, little has improved.
The Marine Corps and Navy still do not require audits of these factories. The Air Force and Army exchanges do, but the audits can come from retailers, and defense officials fail to do routine spot checks to confirm their accuracy.
For example, Citadel Apparels, a factory in a seven-story building in Gazipur, has cut, stitched and shipped more than 11 metric tons of cotton boys’ T-shirts and other clothes for sale at exchanges on Army and Air Force bases in recent months. This summer, lawmakers in Congress asked the Defense Department for proof that Citadel was safe. Defense officials produced an audit conducted for Walmart, another client of the factory, showing that it had an “orange” risk ranking in July 2012, the same high level of alarm that Walmart had given the Tazreen factory before the fatal fire there last year.
While allowing the factory to stay open, the audit offered an alarming statistical snapshot.
Sixty-five percent: number of workers barefoot, some on the building’s roof. Fifty percent: workers without legally required masks to protect against cotton dust. Sixteen percent: workers missing time-sheets, a common sign of forced overtime. Most serious infractions: cracks in the walls that could compromise the building, and partly blocked exit routes and stairwells.
By January, Citadel’s auditors concluded that most of these dangers had been fixed. However, a half-dozen Citadel workers offered a starkly different picture. Virtually none of the original problems had ever been corrected, they said in interviews last month with The Times.
“We aren’t sewing machines,” one worker said. “Our lives are worth more.”
For now, Bangladesh’s garment sector continues to grow, as do purchases from one of its bulk buyers. In the year since Tazreen burned down, American military stores have shipped even more clothes from Bangladesh.
Ian Urbina reported from Bangladesh and Washington. Research was contributed by Susan Beachy in New York, Poypiti Amatatham in Bangkok, Karla Zabludovsky in Mexico City, Malavika Vyawahare in New Delhi and Meridith Kohut in Ouanaminthe, Haiti.
NEW DELHI — The police in Bangladesh charged the owners of a garment factory and 11 of their employees with culpable homicide in the deaths of 112 workers in a fire last year that came to symbolize the appalling working conditions in the country’s dominant textile industry.
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The fire at the Tazreen Fashions factory on Nov. 24, 2012, was later eclipsed by a building collapse in April that cost the lives of 1,100 workers and brought global attention to the unsafe working conditions and low wages at many garment factories in Bangladesh, the No. 2 exporter of apparel after China. The fire also revealed the poor controls that top retailers had throughout their supply chain, since retailers like Walmart said they were unaware that their apparel was being made in such factories.
Among those charged on Sunday were the factory’s owners, Delowar Hossain and his wife, Mahmuda Akther, as well as M. Mahbubul Morshed, an engineer, and Abdur Razzaq, the factory manager, according to local news reports.
Bangladeshi officials have been under intense domestic and international pressure to file charges against those deemed responsible for last year’s deaths. Fires have been a persistent problem in the country’s garment industry for more than a decade, with hundreds of workers killed over the years.
Bangladesh has more than 4,500 garment factories, which employ over four million workers, many of them young women. The industry is crucial to the national economy as a source of employment and foreign currency. Garments constitute about four-fifths of the country’s manufacturing exports, and the industry is expected to grow rapidly.
On the night of the fire, more than 1,150 people were inside the eight-story building, working overtime shifts to fill orders for various international brands. Fire officials say the blaze broke out in the open-air ground floor, where large mounds of fabric and yarn were illegally stored.
But on some floors, managers ordered the employees to ignore a fire alarm and continue to work. Precious minutes were lost. Then, as smoke and fire spread throughout the building, many workers were trapped, unable to descend the smoke-filled staircases, and they were blocked from escape by iron grilles on many windows. Desperate workers managed to break open some windows and leap to safety on the roof of a building nearby. Others simply jumped from upper floors to the ground.
Most retailers offer a family and friends promotion to a select group of customers for savings. But this Thanksgiving weekend, Montauk Tackle Company, makers of American built performance apparel, is offering its family and friends savings to every one’s family and friends. The main course: 20% off everything plus free shipping for orders over $50.00.
According to The National Retail Federation, overall online retail sales this holiday season are expected to amount to $82 billion, which would be up as much as 15% from November and December in 2012. The National Retail Federation also estimates 140 million people will shop in stores or online during the four-day Thanksgiving Day weekend. The trade organization also forecasts that sales in November and December will increase 3.9% to $602.1 billion. Utilizing social media to get the word out will be the course of action for MTC. Twitter, Facebook, Pintrest and specially selected bloggers are just a few of the outlets. “What better way to share with family and friends then through social media, no special code to enter into our website, just 20% off across the board for this great weekend. We just wanted to make it as simple as possible to enjoy the savings,” says Ron Cesark, President of Montauk Tackle Co. Another recent National Retail Federation survey asked people whether they plan to shop either in stores or online Thanksgiving Day. Of those who plan to shop over the whole weekend — Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday — almost a fourth (23.5% or 33 million shoppers) said they’d shop on Thanksgiving. |
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Montauk Tackle Company, Inc. is a technical performance apparel company that embodies the active outdoor coastal-living lifestyle. A privately held, family owned company founded in 2007 on Long Island, New York that is committed to resourcing and manufacturing in the U.S.A.
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